With Gilded Age mansions, a serene coastline, the oldest restaurant in the United States, and so much more, it’s no wonder that Newport is one of Rhode Island’s most popular tourist destinations. Nature meets history and opulence in a city that has a bit of something for everyone. So blast Taylor Swift’s “last great american dynasty,” rewatch The Great Gatsby, and start planning your trip to Newport, Rhode Island!
Springline Coffee at Bowen's Wharf
A hub for more than just sailors, Bowen’s Wharf is lined with boutiques, restaurants, and galleries. Head to the end of the dock to start your day with a quiet cup of coffee by the water from Springline Coffee. Springline Coffee, a quaint cafe in size and character with its shingle style exterior and sublime location, has spent years using the feedback of its community to craft the consummate cup of coastal coffee. While visiting in August 2023, I was lucky enough to try their “Taylor’s Latte (Springline Version).” This perfectly blended blueberry and honey latte encompassed summer vibes and gave the perfect kick necessary to complete the day’s itinerary. Sit and sip while listening to the lapping of the water. Stay in Bowen’s Wharf to peruse the shops, or return in the evening to grab last minute souvenirs if you’re ok with a bit of hustle and bustle.
The Newport Mansions
Leave the present day and step back in time to the grandeur of Newport’s Gilded Age Mansions. Not-your-grandma’s “summer cottage,” these mansions were once the seasonal residences of wealthy tycoons and home to lavish parties. Now, you can visit many of them via the Preservation Society of Newport County. As you walk the halls, some scenes may look familiar to fans of The Great Gatsby (filmed at Rosecliff) and The Gilded Age (filmed at The Breakers, Marble House, The Elms, Rosecliff, Château-sur-Mer, and Hunter House). Touring the interior of each mansion can take one to two hours. Grab a printed guide at the entrance or listen along to a free audio tour on the Preservation Society’s app. Download ahead of time and bring your own headphones. Which mansions are open to visitors varies throughout the year, so plan accordingly. There are a variety of ticket options on their website — I opted for a three properties for $46 deal.
The Elms
Start your tour of Newport’s mansions with The Elms. The Elms was modeled after the French Chateau d’Asnieres and completed in 1901 for Mr. and Mrs. Edward Julius Berwind. From the statues within the conservatory, to the ceiling in the drawing room, to the fireplaces and chandeliers of the ballroom, you’ll begin to get a grasp of the affluence of the families that once called these mansions their vacation homes. While it’s fun to walk through the ballroom and imagine you’re in Bridgerton, it’s a bit painful to think this home was built for today’s equivalent of 49.7 million dollars. Though it’s not right on the ocean — as the other two mansions of the day will be — The Elms makes up for it with beautiful grounds and gardens that you’ll want to ensure you have time to enjoy.
Marble House and Afternoon Tea at the Chinese Tea House
Built from 1888 to 1892 by architect Richard Morris Hunt, Marble House was a birthday present for Alva Vanderbilt gifted by her husband, William. Throughout the home, and particularly in the lavish embellishments of the dining room and gothic room, you’ll see more odes to French architecture and design. Strolling through the rooms, you’ll be able to almost imagine you’re in a Parisian palace. As you head around the back of the property towards the cliffs, you’ll see something that looks a little out of place in your fantasy. The magnificent Chinese Tea House was a later addition by Alva. Where she once hosted rallies for women’s right to vote, you can now indulge in an afternoon tea. For just $35 per person, you can enjoy a three-tiered service with luxurious views of Marble House and the Atlantic. If you’re unable to make a reservation for the tea house, you may picnic on the grounds of any of the properties as long as you have a ticket.
The Breakers
Saving the grandest for last, end your “mansions” portion of the day by visiting The Breakers. Built for Cornelius Vanderbilt II and his family in the early 1890s, the 70 rooms and 62,482 square feet of The Breakers once entertained presidents, royalty, and other famed guests. The architecture pays homage to Italian Renaissance and Roman styles. No expense was spared. Many of the materials were shipped across the Atlantic and added an authenticity to a new, American nobility. Revered as the number one tourist destination in Rhode Island, hundreds of thousands flock to The Breakers each year to remember a bygone era. Some of my favorite rooms on the tour were the great hall, the dining room, and the music room. If you’re looking for some pre-trip reading, check out the prologue to Anderson Cooper’s book Vanderbilt: The Rise and Fall of an American Dynasty.
While the mansions feel like reflections of a past full of promise and prestige, they truly weren’t built that long ago. At The Elms, history blurs with the present; the sister of Mr. Berwind continued to live on the property until her passing in 1961. Descendants of Cornelius Vanderbilt II were still living at The Breakers until 2018. A bygone era, not quite so bygone. We can almost imagine that someday these mansions will be as old as the European residences they were modeled after are now. Visiting more modern history is visiting what will someday be ancient history.
Cliff Walk
With 348 miles of coastline (quite a feat for a state only 37 miles wide), the 3.5 miles along Newport’s Cliff Walk are some of the most ambled in the state. There are multiple places to enter and exit the Cliff Walk, and you can enjoy pieces of it or walk it in full if time permits. The path can be unstable at times and those with limited mobility may struggle with the unpaved portions, but there is plenty of paved path for all to enjoy. As its name suggests, much of the path is elevated above ocean cliffs, but some areas open up to rocky beaches that lead to the water. Let the salt air permeate your lungs as the warm water of summer splashes on your toes. While visible from the path, the opulence of the mansions is forgotten at the water, where natural beauty overshadows grand displays of class and status.
The White Horse Tavern
There are plenty of great places to eat in Newport, Rhode Island, but sometimes you just have to go with the tried and true. And what could be more “tried” than the oldest restaurant in the United States?! The White Horse Tavern was originally constructed as a home in 1652 and converted into a tavern in 1673. With a rich history, including being owned by a pirate, The White Horse Tavern has proudly served patrons for over 350 years. With the exposed beams, narrow door frames, and large fireplaces, here you’ll be transported to many years prior to the mansions. But we’re not taking you here just for the aesthetic. The food blends nautical flavors with sophisticated pub fare. Pursue the unmatched wine list. If you have just a few glasses too many, you may begin to think you’ve actually been transported to Colonial times. Be sure to make reservations in advance.
Goat Island Lighthouse
End your day with a picturesque sunset at Goat Island Lighthouse, also known as Newport Harbor Lighthouse. Just like Daisy to Gatsby, let the green light call out to you and guide you forward. Looking in the opposite direction of the open ocean, sunset here will also be illuminated by the Claiborne Pell/Newport Bridge and local boaters. Reach the lighthouse by walking around either side of Gurney’s Newport Resort & Marina.
Quick Notes on Transportation and Lodging
During peak season, you can expect expensive rates for lodging and parking. If you’re looking to save, consider staying in a nearby town or camping locally. For parking, $40 for the day can be on the cheaper end, which we received from the lot adjacent to the Newport Transportation Center. You can get a voucher from bus drivers to lower your parking fee, and the Rhode Island Public Transit Authority has free lots for park-n-ride commuters using other routes. During the summer, you’ll enjoy free service on route 67 shuttles, which will take you to most of the tourist attractions. We did find that due to traffic, the shuttles could be heavily delayed, so they may be hard to use if you’re on a tight schedule. You can use your Google Maps app to track the buses in real-time. Free parking is available at the mansions.
Staying Longer
If you’re staying longer in Newport, check out the International Tennis Hall of Fame, Fort Adams State Park, the Newport Art Museum, the Redwood Library and Athenaeum (oldest library in the country continuously in use), Castle Hill Lighthouse, area beaches, additional mansions, or get out on the water!
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