With stone buildings and French as the dominant language, Quebec City provides American tourists with a European feel at a fraction of the cost. While the province may get a reputation as being uninviting to those who only speak English, my sister and I were met with nothing but smiles and friendly assistance in our two and a half days there (though I would learn how to read “receive the key for the bathroom from the front” in French so that you don’t knock and wait ten minutes like I did). In just two short days we were able to get a taste of both the city and surrounding area that left us craving more. You can’t go wrong by simply allowing yourself to get lost in this city’s streets, but if you are looking for something a little more structured, read on to learn how to make the most of two quick nights in quaint Quebec City.
Saint-Jean-Baptiste
Where to Stay
Without much planning, my sister and I coincidentally lodged in what I now believe to be the best neighborhood to stay in when you visit Quebec City. Staying on Rue Saint-Jean in the Saint-Jean-Baptiste neighborhood allows you the ideal downtown location close to everything you will want to see in the city whilst maintaining a quiet and residential feel. While our Airbnb wasn’t anything special, we loved staying in this part of town, it was very affordable, and we appreciated the free parking at Stationnement SPAQ – Youville, a large garage nearby (street parking is hard to come by).
Coffee and Grabbing a Bite
If you need a quick jolt of energy, we recommend Épicerie J.A. Moisan or Boulangerie artisanale Epi’Fanny for a quick coffee and pastry to go. Our favorite coffee shop in the neighborhood ended up being Cantook, for its warm wood and stone features and its exquisite espresso. If, like us, your drive left you hungry, we recommend Le Projet – Spécialité Microbrasseries. This microbrewery has thirty different beers and ciders and experienced staff that will help you pick out the perfect fit for your pallet. To fill you up, they have sharable bar food options as well as a few larger entrées. While Le Projet is marketed as an English-style bistro-pub, the setting feels elegant and French, with stunning moldings and gold accents. Be warned, on a hot day you may want to grab a table outside, as it seemed they did not have air conditioning.
Unique Library and Historic Cemetery
We spent our first day exploring our neighborhood. As avid readers, we were thrilled to find out that the 1870’s church down the street had been renovated into a public library. Library Claire-Martin is a hidden gem that we were happy to stumble across. It has beautiful towering ceilings and remains of sacramental architecture with modern upgrades. Those who regularly check out books here are very lucky. We appreciated the grounds as well. Walking through Saint Matthew Anglican Cemetery surrounding the church, you’ll find tombstones dating to the 1700’s that serve as a peaceful reminder of Quebec’s centuries of history.
A Taste of the Neighborhood Nightlife
The neighborhood is still home to many other functioning houses of worship, and while we did not go inside the beautiful St. Jean Baptiste Church, we did go to the bar across the street. Cleverly named Bar Le Sacrilège, here you will find other types of spirits and religion. Of course, we had to try some local pints and cannot refute their claim that it is the “most beautiful terrace in town” as the cozy feel and earthy aesthetic would have kept us there all night had we not had other places on our list to check out.
To keep on the beer trend, head to Pub Nelligan’s. This Irish pub features a large whiskey selection and of course, the good Irish girls that we are, Guinness. While beautiful with its exposed brick and wood features, Pub Nelligan’s serves a laid back feel and offers plenty of indoor and outdoor space to spread out. As they don’t serve food, you are welcome to bring your own (we grabbed charcuterie from a local grocery store) or have something delivered. If you need one last treat, grab gelato or chocolate from Érico and peruse their small, yet interesting chocolate museum before heading to bed.
Old Town
The next morning, wake up the sun and you’ll have the pleasure of Old Town all to yourself. We found that the area did not get crowded until about 10 am. Walking from your accommodations on the upper part of Rue Saint-Jean, you’ll get to see a good portion of Old Town. While below is an itinerary that has you do a bit of zig zagging, it is how I believe the order of events should go and I promise you will not get tired of walking these streets (ok, maybe physically, but power through because there are so many amazing things to see)!
Breakneck Steps, Mural and Scenic Square
Enjoying walking down the famed Breakneck Steps before the area is swarmed with tourists later in the day. Continue through the cobblestone streets to Café La Maison Smith Notre-Dame for a maple latte and croissant. Your breakfast will be breathtaking when enjoyed on the cafe’s patio that sits in Palace Royal, a small plaza made up of stone restaurants and the charming Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Catholic Church. Continue around the corner to view Quebec City Mural, a masterpiece depicting the city’s history.
Don’t head back up the hill yet! If you do one thing with your time in Quebec, it should be exploring this area. There is plenty to experience in these streets by the water. We enjoyed popping into various shops and “accidentally” ended up with a morning gelato in our hand from Confiserie Madame GiGi (we recommend the maple and pistachio flavors). Of course, we also paused for photos at the Quebec City Center Swing.
Ride to Lunch
While it may be hard to leave this part of the city, continue on with your day by taking the Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec up the side of the hill. For just $4 per person (you will need exact cash), you can avoid walking back up the breakneck steps and enjoy a view as you are transported to Place d’Armes. Cross the square to Le Chic Shack for a filling lunch. We particularly enjoyed their la forestiere poutine (vegetarian) and their homemade blackcurrant blueberry soda. As you digest, swing down Rue du Trésor to see the artwork of local artisans.
For an additional quick stop, walk through the immaculate Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral and learn the histories of the parish. I particularly enjoyed the ceiling mural of blue skies in the central nave and admiring the nearby courtyard of the Petit Séminaire de Québec. Just a few doors down we picked up a souvenir Christmas ornament from La Boutique de Noël de Québec, a shop that is fun to peruse year round.
Tour a Fort
Retrace your steps until you are heading down the Dufferin Terrace. This scenic terrace dates to 1859 and grants you views of both the water and the Fairmont. Making up for the steps you saved from the funicular, continue until you see signs for the Governors’ Promenade. You’ll take this to reach La Citadelle de Québec. As the Citadelle is an active fort, the only way to visit is by guided tour. While this was not on our original itinerary, we found the tour to be interesting and worth the $18 CAD per person (exchange rate is currently in favor of the American dollar). Tours in French and English provide military history, insight as to why the fort is star shaped, talk about the occupants current rolls, and give you a chance to see Batisse, the royal goat. If that last part is important to you, you’ll want to arrive earlier for the 10 am ceremony. Additionally, you’ll receive gorgeous views of the city below.
Get Fancy at the Fairmont
If, like us, you are watching your budget, you likely won’t be staying in the fantastical Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. From the regal exterior to the opulent lobby, this place feels like a castle you read about in fairy tales. Luckily, there is a hack that allows you to enjoy its splendor and that is the bar. The onsight bar, named 1608 for the year Québec City was founded, has a dark, moody, and dreamy obeisance and overlooks the St. Lawrence River. Though it may have been a placebo effect being that it was the most expensive drink I have ever ordered, my $25 espresso martinez was one of the best cocktails I have ever had. Due to the price, we each only had one glass, but they were worth every penny.
Dessert for Dinner and More Dessert
Shhhhhh, you’re on vacation. So we won’t tell if you, as we did, opt for crepes for dinner (when in French Canada). Le Casse-Crêpe Breton gives a modern meets old world feel and serves up timeless savory and sweet crepes. Persuaded to try the s’mores crepe of the day, not a crumb was left on our plates. And because we apparently have an insatiable sweet tooth, we recommend grabbing the Quebec style blend at Boutique Mary’s Popcorn. Munch on it as you walk under the grand St. John Gate back to your room.
Getting Out of the City
Wake up with Waterfalls
Starting the second morning with a bang, we grabbed a coffee at Second Cup Café before heading out of the city to see what the surrounding area had to offer. Having heard from others the majesty of Montmorency Falls, we knew we had to see this landmark for ourselves. At 272.3 feet high, Montmorency Falls are actually taller than the famed Niagara Falls. For just $14, we bought advanced parking and gondola tickets that brought us from the base to the top. Just a short walk from there we were able to cross a bridge right over the falls themselves. While we appreciated not having to walk and the clear view, the gondola does not get very close to the falls. In the future, we would instead allocate our money to do the thrilling zip line that crosses right in front of the falls. For adrenaline junkies, there is a via ferrata as well. Taking the 487 stairs down on the waterfall’s opposite side, we enjoyed new, additional views and felt the mist, but those with mobility issues should again take the gondola or have someone meet them at the top with a car.
Île d'Orléans
The second part of our day led us just over the bridge to Île d’Orléans. The best way to experience this island is to do an entire exterior loop and see as much as you can within a few hours, though unfortunately given the small town feel many businesses close early. Just in case, choose to go either clockwise or counterclockwise based on what parts of your itinerary are your priority to see (we went clockwise).
Canada’s Gold
You can’t go to Canada without experiencing the country’s gold mines… sugar shacks that is. As fans of all things maple flavored, we knew that we would be going to a maple syrup farm during our trip. While most of the other farms on the island are closed after the trees have been tapped, Le Relais des Pins is open year round. You can stop by just to shop or enjoy a meal. We experienced exceptional customer service and were shown a video all about the maple industry and this farm’s individual production. Their shop held a variety of maple products that make great gifts and you can treat yourself any time of year to their maple taffy on snow experience, where you roll your own maple on a fresh pan of snow to make a popsicle type desert. This was only $5 for two taffies and we were given a free tasting of all three types of maple syrup they make as well.
Try a different kind of golden treat by sipping on the brews at Microbrasserie de l’Île d’Orléans – Pub le Mitan. This is the island’s only microbrewery and their phenomenal year round and unique seasonal beers are sure to satisfy. Their summer strawberry basil beer was in the top five beers I have ever had. While we did wait a while to be seated (the day we went was packed), the burgers and beers were worth it.
Lookout Tower and Lavender Fields
Next on our list was the Tour d’observation St-François. This wooden observation tower gives sweeping 360 degree views of the island and St. Lawrence River. Additionally, placards provide brief histories of the local land. Afterwards, we attempted to move onto the lavender fields at La Seigneurie de l’Île d’Orléans. Unbeknownst to us, we were visiting after the lavender had already been harvested. While images of their botanical gardens did look beautiful and worth the $25 admission fee, they predict that you will need between an hour and two hours to complete the self guided walking tour. After walking the whole day prior in the city, we decided to add this to our list for our next visit and hopefully in the early summer so that we can also enjoy the lavender.
Decadent Delicacies
Needing a midday pick me up, we stopped at La Midinette. This cottage chic cafe has something for every mood, from coffee to housemade sodas and wine. Its classy interior caters to a plethora of Instagram photo ops. When you’re done, walk across the street to awe over the red roof church and dip your toes in the water.
You’ll have to drive just over ten minutes to get to our next stop, Confiturerie Tigidou Jam Factory. Both my sister and myself agreed this was one of the highlights of the day. If eco-friendly, locally sourced, natural jam wasn’t on your itinerary, it should be! While they do jam tastings, we opted for two scones with cream cheese and raspberry cherry jam. We devoured these with a beautiful view of sail boats going down the river. And of course, with yet another unassumingly beautiful interior.
More Treats
Our research had told us that we would want to stop for a chocolate dipped ice cream cone and our stomachs agreed. Chocolaterie de l’Ile d’Orleans has more than just artisanal chocolates, but a variety of ice cream dip options and a small chocolate museum as well. Fair warning the small is LARGE but this is the type of challenge you should accept.
To salute our trip, we ended with a wine tasting at Ste-Pétronille. While their tastings are preset, if you would like to try something else you can order a glass or bottle. This setting was beautiful, and as it is set on the western side of the island, made for a lovely, golden hour glow. You can sip and enjoy, walk amongst the vines, or (like us) cheers to a magnificent trip in a city you will surely have to visit again.
Border Crossing and App
Some final logistics. Canada is a very popular destination for Americans not just for the culture but as it is easily accessible by land. If you are driving to Quebec City by car from within the United States, you will most likely be going through a border crossing in New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, or Maine. We took the Thousand Islands border crossing, which took us a mere five minutes with only one car in front of us on a weekday morning. The speed and ease to this crossing was a direct result of the ArriveCan app. ArriveCan is a mandatory app that requires you to put in all of your accommodation, entry, and covid information prior to your border arrival. While tedious, this does make the process faster when you are on your journey.
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