As the second largest country by total area in the world, it’s no surprise that Canada has a variety of cultures and biomes (see previous Canada blogs). Looking to avoid potential snowy roads, my partner and I sought a trip that could be completed using public transport, provide nature and city vibes, and have some festive holiday fun. British Columbia, particularly Vancouver and Victoria, ticked all the boxes.
Vancouver
Gastown
After dropping your bags at the hotel, take your first bites of the city in Gastown. MeeT in Gastown offers plant-based comfort food that could fool anyone in a relaxed, cozy setting. Splitting the Philly “cheezsteak” poutine and Buffalo cauliflower mac n’ cheez made for one of our favorite meals of the trip. These were complemented by local beers; Sneaky Weasel by Balderdash Brewing and Forager Lager from Whistler Brewing Co. They were easily able to accommodate gluten free, provided exceptional service, and didn’t hurt our wallets.
Give yourself about an hour to keep exploring this neighborhood. Gastown is where Victorian and hipster styles meet. There are plenty of galleries, souvenir shops, and eateries to pop into as you walk the brick lined streets. The principal landmark here is the Gastown Steam Clock. This clock is powered by steam and its antique style is a major draw for tourists, though it was built in 1977. Just a few blocks away you’ll find Canada Place, a beautiful, multi-purpose building that largely resembles the Sydney Opera House. After snapping a few pics here and watching local seaplanes land, hop on the free shuttle to…
Capilano Suspension Bridge Park
Their slogan, “by sea and air we prosper,” perfectly represents what awaits visitors in vibrant Vancouver. Take to the air in the treetops at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park. While ticket prices are steep, $62.93 CAD ($46.10 USD) for adults, you can spend several worthwhile hours traversing this park. Winter guests get to enjoy Capilano Suspension Bridge Park completely lit up in their Canyon Lights experience. You’ll find that you want to do everything twice – once while you still have daylight to better see the canyons and canopies, and once after dark to have holiday lights with a thrill. Try to arrive about an hour before sunset, as this allows you to experience all the glory of the park.
The highlight of this park is of course the main suspension bridge, spanning 450 feet across and 230 feet above the canyon below. There is also the cliff walk and the treetops adventure, an experience that makes you feel like you are on the moon of Endor. For those afraid of heights, be warned that the bridges throughout the park sway, but they are very safe. There are several other trails and ponds breathtakingly lit for the season. Warm up with a mulled wine, boozy tea, or spiked hot chocolate at one of their three food service areas.
Vancouver Christmas Market
Because one glass of mulled wine isn’t enough, next, head to the water for a seaside Christmas market. The shuttle you took to Capilano Suspension Bridge Park will take you right back to Canada Place. From here, it’s a less than five minute walk to the Vancouver Christmas Market. It will cost you about $15 USD to get in when you book in advance. Once inside, you’ll be delighted in the feel of a traditional Bavarian Christmas market. Wooden stalls and twinkling lights will guide you as you peruse the local artisan goods that make perfect gifts. Of course, the center is where you will find Glühwein at the Christmas Pyramid. You can buy traditional mulled wine or a delicious white wine version. There are plenty of tasty food stalls, but the line at the pretzel stand speaks for itself.
Hotel Belmont
After walking, eating, and boozing, you’ll be ready for a good night’s sleep. Hotel Belmont, part of Accor’s MGallery collection, is in the heart of the city and steeped in character. You can keep the drinks flowing at The Living Room, their elegant and colorful bar. Or, play some bowling and other games in The Basement, a vibrant and hip retreat. Their rooms are a joyful oasis, with quirks such as the tiles in the shower reading “no diving.” Rates match those of other four star hotels in the city (our room was less than $150 USD after taxes and fees) and the staff is extremely friendly.
Stanley Park Seawall
Stanley Park, the city’s largest urban park, is a great way to start your morning in Vancouver. Take the bus ($2.50 CAD per person) to be dropped at EB W Georgia St @ Gilford St. From here, walk peacefully along the harbor beside the Vancouver Rowing Club and boats. You’ll get to see a beautiful view that exemplifies the juxtaposition of nature and city Vancouver offers. Keep going to come across totem poles and other First Nations art at Brockton Point. There are plaques describing the carvings and a gift shop for souvenirs. Stanley Park is also home to the Vancouver Aquarium, the Stanley Park Railway, a brewpub, as well as vast biking and walking trails. Check out a few additional ways to enjoy your time at Stanley Park in our other Vancouver blog.
Honolulu Coffee and Ice Skating at Robson Square
Head back into the city to Honolulu Coffee. This warm interior with murals and decor of beaches is the perfect reprieve from the cold. They use Kona grown and roasted beans, supply craft beer from Maui, and first opened in 1992 on Oahu. Their success on the islands has led them to “bring Aloha to the mainland.” Honolulu Coffee says Mele Kalikimaka with a dazzling tree and flavorful hot beverages. I recommend the Hawaiian latte, with macadamia nut and coconut flavors. If it inspires you, check out our Hawaii blogs.
Down the street is a winter pop up that you won’t want to miss. Robson Square Ice Rink offers locals and visitors an affordable activity fun for all ages. For just $5 CAD, you can rent skates and have unlimited ice time. There are lockers to stow your belongings for a quarter and hot beverages available for purchase. From December 13th – 24th, they will have live Christmas music from 6:00pm – 9:00pm. As the rentals are so cheap, it makes it worth it to stay for as long or as little as you’d like.
Ferry from Vancouver to Victoria
Getting from Vancouver to Victoria via land and sea can be an undertaking. You’ll need to take the Canada line south to Bridgeport station. From here, you’ll jump on the 620 bus which will take you all the way to BC Ferries Tsawwassen Terminal. You can use tap-to-pay for Vancouver transit or buy a ticket. Check in for the ferry opens 60 minutes prior to departure and is open for only 30 minutes. Once onboard, you get to relax in the passenger seating lounges where you can purchase food and drinks. Book your ferry ($37.40 CAD) to sail during the day so that you can enjoy views of the gulf islands along your journey. Upon arrival at Swartz Bay Terminal, the 70 or 71 bus will take you to Victoria in one hour. Make sure to have a ticket or cash for this bus (no tap-to-pay at this time).
Victoria
Chinatown
Glowing lanterns, hidden alleys, and an arch to welcome visitors from all over the world, Victoria’s Chinatown is not to be missed. As the second oldest Chinatown in North America (after San Francisco) this neighborhood is a staple of the city and a great first stop. Visit during the day to walk down Dragon Alley and Fan Tan Alley. Fan Tan was once a gambling district with opium dens but now resembles Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley, with tight quarters and quirky shops. Get a festive, hot gingerbread tea at The Bubble Tea Place to enjoy the best bubble tea you have ever had. Continue treating yourself with a London Fog cheesecake from QV Cafe & Bakery. Stay until dark to see the lanterns illuminated before continuing your evening.
Irish Times Pub
Every trip has a highlight that was simply stumbled upon. For us, it was the Irish Times Pub. Its cheery, twinkling lights, and music acted as a beacon to draw us in from the cold. Ensure you go out of your way to enjoy an evening here. Decked out for both Christmas and the world cup, you really will feel like you entered a portal to Ireland. Sit and have a Guinness or Magners. Check their website for what time to catch the live Irish music, which they have every night. While the Irish Times Pub menu looked delicious, and it was voted the best pub in North America in 2017, our cravings led us to order dinner from La Taquisa and J & J Wonton Noodle House, both of which did not disappoint.
Christmas Lights
In December, the Chinatown lanterns won’t be the only part of the city that is lighting your way. Walk to the harbor to see the glimmer of lights reflected from the boats into the water with the Hotel Fairmont Empress as the backdrop. To experience this from a different view, Victoria Harbour Ferry offers 45 minute shows from the water. You’ll see 3D projected animations and sound-reactive lighting tell the story of a child’s winter dream. We stayed on land and still enjoyed plenty of holiday magic, seeing the Legislative Assembly of British Columbia beautifully lit up and streetlamps shining red and green.
The Pendray Inn
Victoria has a plethora of adorable and affordable Airbnb options, and luggage stowage with great reviews available at AirLobby. That being said, we decided to go with a classy and historic Inn and highly recommend it. The Pendray Inn and Tea House has rates starting around $161 CAD, is centrally located, and offers a free, three tier breakfast. Not many other places offer complimentary salmon. The lobby was cheerful with a decorated tree and evergreen adorned banister. The rooms reflect the elegant atmosphere of the Victorian era from which they originate and you simply melt into the comfortable beds. You’ll be very well rested for further gallivanting the next day.
Beacon Hill Park
By the suggestion of our front desk attendant, start your Victoria morning with a calming walk to Beacon Hill Park. This park rivals Hyde or Central not in size but in beauty. Peacefully sit at Goodacre Lake before crossing Stone Bridge. Look closely to see the Moss Lady sculpture, which may be difficult if you are distracted by the park’s colorful residents. Beacon Hill Park is home to a large population of peacocks and peahens. They tend to be found around the ponds and will surely be attempting to beat the black squirrels or mallards to the next snack. The other end of the park will treat you to the world’s tallest freestanding totem pole at 173 feet. We were lucky enough to have a bald eagle perched at the top during our visit. As you head back into the city, you’ll pass more totem poles and a ceremonial house painted with traditional First Nations art at Thunderbird Park.
Royal BC Museum
Escape the chill within the Royal BC Museum for just $5 CAD. As the third floor is currently closed, our highlight was the natural history galleries. Here, you walk through changing times and landscapes of British Columbia. Learn about mammoths that once roamed the lands and then pass through to the forest and coastal exhibits. At the ocean station exhibit we had a knowledgeable volunteer point out the variety of live sea creatures in the tank and tide pool. The gallery was put together extremely well and makes for a pleasant way to see and learn more about British Columbia. If you have time, you can also buy a ticket to enjoy one of their IMAX films. For the holiday season they are screening The Polar Express but there are a variety of awe inspiring documentaries as well.
Afternoon Tea at the Pendray
End your time in Victoria on a high note with an afternoon tea. For this, we returned to The Pendray where we took advantage of their special to get two afternoon teas for $110 CAD ($81.29 USD). We used OpenTable to make an advanced reservation and both chose the West Coast Afternoon Tea option. This came with a choice of mimosa or sparkling wine, a pot of tea, savories, scones, and sweets. Some of our favorite bites were the shrimp and chives salad, the scones with devon-style cream and local jam, and the macarons. Toast to your travels and start planning your return trip to British Columbia.
Sadly, all good things must come to an end. From the Pendray Inn it is just a three minute walk to Black Ball ferry terminal… and a new adventure!
**This trip was taken with a person with celiac. All restaurants and bars listed are either completely gluten free or can accommodate someone with a gluten allergy. Always confirm with your server.
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