We’ve been planning a family vacation to Germany for several years and it finally came to fruition this summer. The direct flight from Toronto, Canada to Frankfurt, Germany helped maximize our time overseas. From Frankfurt, we took one of Germany’s ICE (intercity express) trains into Köln (Cologne). Not only is this a cool experience with pretty amazing views, it saves some time when compared to driving by car. A subsequent quick subway ride dropped us right outside our rental car pick-up. Initially I had rented a 7-passenger van; however, this was unavailable and provided us a free upgrade to our tank of a van, “Big Bertha:” a 9-passenger, diesel, Mercedes Van. Our Air BnB was in Brühl, a smaller town just 30 minutes South of Köln. I can’t recommend this area enough as it was within walking distance to a small restaurant/beer garden, bakery, Aldi grocery store, and a downtown area with plenty of shops, cafes, and restaurants. After hours of traveling, we met Vera (our exchange student from high school) and her family for dinner at Alter Lindenhof.
My first official Kölsch beer of our family vacation to Germany was enjoyed with dinner. This beer dates back thousands of years and is only considered a true Kölsch if brewed within 50 km (31 miles) of Köln. It’s estimated only 11-12 breweries currently produce a true Kölsch beer, typically served in a tall and narrow 0.2-L glass (6 oz). A crisp, refreshing beer for a hot summer day.
Our next day, Tuesday, started with a morning walk to Stadtbäckerei Hürth Kleins Backstub only a few minutes down the road. This was a daily occurrence for coffee and morning pastries such as croissants. This fueled us all for a walk into town, with stops at Schloss Augustusburg Brühl Führungen Castle and Jagdschloss Falkenlust Hunting Lodge. The castle was built for Clemens August, Prince-Elector and archbishop of Cologne, in the early 18th century. Shortly after completion, the hunting lodge was constructed as a place to stay and practice his favorite sport, Falconry.
We proceeded to walk into Brühl, where we stopped for a refreshing gelato at Cercena. An entire day could be spent walking up and down the streets of Brühl, admiring the architecture, and exploring the plentiful shops. Walking back towards our flat for the night, we stopped for dinner at Brühler Wirtshaus am Schloss, which of course had perfect outdoor seating adjacent to the castle. I suggest starting with a Kölsch beer (of course), followed by Hausgemachtes Krüstchen-Gulasch (Goulash), Currywurst with Pommes Frites (bratwurst with curry and french fries), and a special they offered similar to Holzfällersteak (steak with fried potatoes, onions, bacon). If we had a few more days, I’m sure we would have walked back for another dinner!
Wednesday was Vera’s day as she showed us all around Cologne! We started our morning bright and early by climbing up 533 steps (approximately 97 meters or 318 feet) at the Cologne Cathedral. Breathtaking views await at the top, along with the largest church bell I’ve ever seen. The cathedral construction began in 1248 and lasted over 600 years. Furthermore, it was bombed over a dozen times during WWII and is still standing, albeit after some repairs and newer stained glass windows in one location.
We continued to Heinzelmännchenbrunnen fountain, built in 1899 to tell the story of the Heinzelmännchen. Legend states these little gnomes like people worked all night so the people of Köln could relax during the day. We continued to the Ostermann Fountain, completed in 1939, honoring the singer and lyricist, Willi Ostermann. Our journey continued to a couple of churches, Groß St. Martin and St. Kolumba.
After walking through the magnificent churches, we proceeded to the NS-Dokumentationszentrum Köln (NS Documentation Center), which memorializes the victims of the Nazi regime. After walking through the building listening to the audio tour, we finished in the basement. Numerous prisoner inscriptions are still seen carved and written on the prison cell walls. Down a narrow hallway through this former Gestapo prison, an opening led out to the courtyard, where it’s estimated several hundred executions took place.
Throughout Germany, as well as other European countries, you may notice a small brass plate on the ground while walking over the cobblestone. These are known as “Stolpersteine” or “stumbling stones” created by artist Gunter Demnig in 1992 to commemorate individuals from the Holocaust. More than 75,000 Stolpersteine have been laid, typically outside the last known residency, or place of work, freely chosen by a person before falling victim to Nazism. This project is considered by many to be the largest decentralized memorial monument in the world.
After leaving the Documentation Center Memorial, we continued walking around Cologne, including the Belgian Quarter. We included a brief stop at Schmitz EIS for another refreshing gelato before proceeding to Johann Schäfer Biergarten. This popular spot includes plentyof outdoor seating right on The Rhine, with great views of the river. Several beers and brats are available, along with their special Pommes (french fries with chopped onions, ketchup, and mayo). I promise you will want seconds of the fries!
After our morning coffee and pastries, Thursday brought us to Bonn, where Vera is originally from. We met Vera’s parents in the city center, right near an amazing farmer’s market and the city hall. After walking around near the city hall, we passed by Ludwig van Beethoven’s house and birthplace. We were further stunned by more churches, including the Bonner Münster (Bonn Minster Church) estimated to have been built prior to the 13th century! We passed by The University of Bonn, which is such a sight to see itself. A trip to Germany is not complete without a stop at the Haribo Factory, which was home to even more than just the gummy bears we are used to back in the states.
Vera’s father gave us a quick tour of La Redoute, a ballroom venue completed in 1792, where he currently volunteers and her youngest brother had his wedding reception. They were kind enough to invite us over for a lighter lunch and snacks at their house, before we all proceeded to our river cruise on the Rhine with Köln Düsseldorfer. This stopped at Unkel, a small German town of several thousand people, where we were able to stretch our legs, and of course, enjoy another gelato in town. Our dinner was at Bastei Restaurant, where a few of us enjoyed some “family style” ordering with great riverfront views. Our night concluded with Peters Kölsch Bier, where we were all able to “pop the top” on this favorite German beer bottle.
On Friday, we all decided to make the short drive across the border into the Netherlands to experience another country. We started heading south, stopping at Monschau, a small German town which was quickly a favorite by all. The old streets and homes quickly won us over, as did the food at Haus Flosdorff Restaurant. We were finally able to try their well known mustard soup, along with a few plates of bratwurst and another style of goulash. We had a short drive through Belgium before entering Maastricht, Netherlands. After a local stopped us outside of Friandises promoting his all time favorite chocolate, of course we had to see what the hype was all about. We all shared a small assortment of chocolates which were in fact delicious. Our daily gelato was enjoyed at JEF, an ice cream shop over the bridge in Maastricht. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived all of the churches had already closed for the day. We admired more architecture and spectacular views of the bike-lined European streets before making the drive back home to Brühl.
Saturday was the culmination of such an amazing family trip, as Vera, and her significant other Mirco, had the christening of their daughter. A couple dozen of us walked from their flat down to their local church, where Vera actually asked my mother to perform a reading. All of us were then finally able to meet two of Vera’s brothers, who we had previously only spoken to over the phone and social media. They had such a wonderful catered dinner in their backyard for everyone to enjoy. So many smiles, laughs, and memories were had by all. Tears were shed during goodbyes; however, we all knew it was in fact not goodbye, but see you later, or rather, again.
To Vera, Mirco, and their families, we cannot thank you all enough. We cannot wait to plan another family vacation to Germany to visit all of you. To the readers of AWF, I suggest adding a trip to Germany to your travel plans! You will be pleasantly surprised by the beautiful churches, buildings, small towns, and of course, the beer! Until next time…Danke Schö
For more information and content on Germany, click HERE for our Germany travel page!
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