In celebration of my sister’s engagement, my mother booked the three of us a one night stay at The Springs Resort in Pagosa Springs, Colorado.
We started our journey driving four hours from the Albuquerque airport. Flying into the more local Durango airport was out of our budget and in April many roads from Denver have the potential to still be closed from winter weather. As our drive progressed, our route slowly shifted from the desert terrain to that of the breathtaking Colorado mountains. We were even lucky enough to see nine separate herds of grazing elk!
Where we stayed
The lobby is located in the beautiful main lodge that houses a rustic lounge and bar. This is also where you would stay if you booked a luxury suit, which start at $429 per night. On the southside of the main lodge, you can view the mother spring. This spring, once used by the Ute people native to the area, provides the heat for all of the pools at The Springs Resort. Staff check the pool’s water temperatures every three hours. Then, they adjust how much of the mother spring water is added to create each pool’s unique temperature.
On the north side of the main lodge, guests can enjoy the use of a yard sized chess set and views of the San Juan River that runs adjacent to the resort. On the other riverbank, there are domed community gardens, restaurants, boutiques, and “hippy” springs (public soaking pools that also benefit from the geothermal heat).
We stayed in a Classic room, the cheapest at the resort starting at $309 before taxes and fees. These rooms are comfortable, modern, sleep four, and are located in the original Spring Inn Motel building; which houses the wellness studio, is located next to the cafe that serves breakfast and lunch, and puts you closest to the pools.
Our first dip
Arriving at the resort, we were handed reusable water bottles with access to cucumber, lemon, and orange water, poolside towels, and luxurious robes. In fact, the robes are so luxurious that you will be charged $109 if you “accidentally” take them with you in your suitcase. After dumping our suitcases in the room and changing into our robes, we headed straight to the pools. With 25 geothermal pools boasting temperatures ranging from the low 80’s all the way up to over 110 °F, visitors find it easy to bounce from one pool to another or to settle into one that best suits their comfort level. You will want a pair of easy slip on slip off shoes as the concrete can be quite cold and slick.
After exploring a couple options, we decided on a blissful 98 degree pool for the night. Ordering daiquiris and piña coladas from the poolside bar, we got to say the words this budget traveler has always dreamed of uttering, “charge it to the room.” If you can’t bring yourself to leave the embrace of the warm water, friendly staff will happily deliver drinks. Though we were fighting a little light pollution, we were able to soak in some stars before heading back to the room for the evening.
Embracing the Wellness
We started off the next day early to enjoy the ambience of the morning steam rising from the waters. When you stay at the resort, you get access to their free line up of classes. Each class accepts eight participants so sign up in advance. We all agreed, we simply had to do the 8am aqua yoga in the geothermal waters.
For all classes, you meet at the wellness studio attached to the rooms of the old Inn that we were staying in. We walked together down to the pool and enjoyed the best views of the river while we worked on our breathing and balance. The water was forgiving in the sense that no one could see how often you had to relax out of a stretch. However, it added the challenge of stabilizing yourself as your body wanted to sway back and forth. This class is a must do!
Making the most of our time
As we were only staying one night at the resort, we had to check out by 10am. Fortunately, this did not mean that our day at The Springs was over. Overnight guests get the perk of enjoying the pools for 24 hours during their stay. Additionally, guests still have the ability to indulge in the classes and the pools until 6pm on the day of their check out. There is a bath house that is used by day guests available for you to still change or shower.
Once checked out, we shifted gears for a few hours. Grabbing surprisingly cheap paleo bowls and crepes from the on-site cafe, we enjoyed views of the river as we refueled. My only complaint here was that the food was brought to us in plastic, single-use containers with plastic cutlery even though we were dining in. We had zero complaints about the food itself though, which was delicious and healthy.
Beyond the resort
As the cafe did not have lattes (my sister and I are addicted), we walked across the San Juan River via the pedestrian bridge to Root House. The aesthetic of this a coffee shop and boutique store made my Instagram-horny heart swoon. Further, we loved our maple pecan oat milk latte and lavender london fog. The three of us also split two obnoxiously large cinnamon rolls. While the espresso maple cinnamon roll was unlike anything I had ever tasted, it was just a hint too sweet. Consequently, the star of the show was the vanilla buttercream roll. Root House’s shelves are lined with local goods that make perfect gifts for those who didn’t come on the trip. Or, consider treating yourself to home decor that subtly pays homage to your adventures.
After this, we walked just a little further up the river to the other boutiques and more typical souvenir shops. It is important to me that I collect a postcard from each destination I travel to (for my sister it is stickers). With our purchases made, we headed back to the car.
Exploring nature
Only a fifteen minute drive away, you will reach the parking lot for Treasure Falls. Though you can view the beautiful 105′ waterfall from your car, I recommend the half mile trail to its base. While the hike is easy, the starting elevation for the trail is 8275′ and climbs approximately 200’ more. That is to say, if you are used to living close to sea level, you may need to catch your breath often. Visiting in the spring, be aware that you may still be encountering some snow in your path.
Healing in and out of the water
We rushed back to the resort for my sister’s 1:00pm gentle flow yoga class, a 2:00pm meditation class, and a 3:00pm ‘roll and recover’ guided lesson on using RAD rollers. All of our classes were taught by Sabra who was a delight and whose voice had the perfect tone to sooth you into tranquility. Next time I’m back at the resort, I look forward to trying her “sound bath.”
Of course, we needed to spend our final moments back in the pools. It took some convincing, but I was able to get my sister and mother on board with doing “The Warrior Plunge.” The Warrior Plunge is a self-guided experience where you go from extremely hot temperature, to a contrasting cold, and back to hot. I had done something similar once in Hungary and knew how good your body feels afterward. The additional benefits that were advertised by The Springs Resort, which included decreased inflammation, a strengthened immune response, and improved sleep eventually sealed the deal and got my family into the cold waters of the San Juan.
Some advice
As our time in the pools came to a close, we could feel the cognitive benefits of the plunge and the restorative qualities of the water. An engaging display in the gift shop showed exactly the breakdown of various minerals in the water that make it so rejuvenating, the highest concentration being 1400 mg/L of sulfate. Please do not wear any jewelry into the pools as the sulfur content will cause a chemical reaction that tarnishes your precious items. My mother sadly had this happen to her ring, but luckily was able to restore it with toothpaste. Also, do not wear white bathing suits into the pools, as these will be dyed.
Learn from what we did right and make the most of your time at the resort by arriving early on the first day and using the pools after you have checked out. I highly recommend splurging and staying at the resort instead of finding accommodations elsewhere. While we did pay an additional $49 to have a third person in our room, this was the same price as a day pass and we gained 24 hour access, the wellness classes, and 5 special VIP pools.
A final taste of Pagosa Springs
Before leaving Pagosa Springs in the rearview, we needed to find some dinner. The Barefoot Grill on-site, where robes are encouraged and shoes are optional, had a delicious sounding menu. However, we decided to get headed back in the direction of New Mexico and eat at Riff Raff Brewing. Here, food and beverages were cheap, filling, and flavorful. I highly recommend getting some of their fried cheese curds to go with your beer flight. The outdoor seating was closed but must be beautiful in the warmer months as it is right along the river. Then, we were back on the road, on the our way to the next adventure. In bittersweet conclusion, we were treated to additional elk viewings as our landscape once again changed.
While Pagosa Springs made for the perfect Mother-Daughter getaway, we met many couples who were enjoying a romantic escape. If it’s in your budget, you can add on massages and treatments from the spa to really experience a dreamy, temporary disappearance from reality. Due to the small class sizes, friendly staff, and nature of close quarters in the pools sparking conversations amongst strangers, it also makes for a perfect solo getaway. No matter how you are traveling, the waters of this quaint town are precisely what you need.
Other Top Posts!
Your Ultimate Trip To Kauai: Exploring the East Shore
From the logistics of hotels and rental cars to the fun stuff like beaches, rum tastings, and lighthouses, we’ve got you covered on Kauai’s East Shore!
Top 7 Things to do in Seward, Alaska: Your Epic 48-Hour Itinerary
From a glacier hike and boat tour of Kenai Fjords National Park, to coffee on the water and fish chowder downtown, we’ve got you covered on planning your next trip to Seward, Alaska!
Ultimate Scotland 8 Day Travel Itinerary (Part 3)
Through the Cairngorms to Edinburgh, let the third and final part of this Scotland 8 day travel itinerary help you start planning your next adventure today!
Ultimate Scotland 8 Day Travel Itinerary (Part 2)
From the Isle of Skye to Loch Ness and Inverness, let part 2 of this post help you plan the most epic Scotland 8 day travel itinerary!
Ultimate Scotland 8 Day Travel Itinerary (Part 1)
From Edinburgh Airport to Glencoe and the Isle of Skye, let part 1 of this post be your guide to an ultimate Scotland 8 day travel itinerary!
Perfect 3-Day Itinerary for Prague, Czech Republic
From the city’s red roofs to the walls of the “Yellow Submarine” pub, there is plenty of history to explore in Prague; medieval and modern.