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The City Different: Santa Fe, NM

Santa Fe, also known as “The City Different,” is full of history, art, and flavors that pay homage to the rich culture of New Mexico. I was lucky enough to visit this past April with my mother and sister on what turned out to be a well-rounded immersion in this capital city. Keep reading to find out what you should add to your own Santa Fe itinerary! 

HISTORY

Bandelier National Monument

Katia D'Arcy and Leslie D'Arcy on the Main Pueblo Loop Trail
Burnt Mesa Trail
Main Pueblo Loop Trail
Anna D'Arcy, Katia D'Arcy, and Leslie D'Arcy in the Cave Dwellings

Top of our list was to visit Bandelier National Monument. Sadly, when we first got there, the parking lot was full. We have since heard that this is a common problem as there aren’t many spaces and you aren’t able to enter through the front gate until one opens up. Get there early to avoid this problem. If visiting during the summer, you will have to use the mandatory shuttle bus. If, like us, you are visiting off-peak and told it is going to be a wait, take a hike along the nearby Burnt Mesa Trail. While we did not complete the full 2.5 miles one way trail, the portion we walked gave us beautiful mountain views. This was an enjoyable contrast to Bandelier, while keeping us close enough to quickly get back over there. Bandelier was worth the wait. The cave dwellings, petroglyphs, and remaining masonry that the park is famous for tell the stories of those who lived here in 1150 CE. Ladders to the dwellings allow you to stick your head into the past while an informative paper walking guide helps you understand the life of those who called this canyon home. Although it was closed while we visited, climbing 140 feet via ladders and stairs up to the Alcove House is considered a highlight of the park. Nevertheless, we found the Main Pueblo Loop Trail supplied us with everything we hoped to get out of our visit. The visitors center on site offers a museum, cafe, and gift shop that are well-worth checking out.

Chapels of Santa Fe Plaza

Loretto Chapel
San Miguel Mission

Santa Fe Plaza is the pulse of the city. If it’s within your budget, stay at a hotel downtown to be a short walk away from the historic landmarks that this thriving cultural center comprises. Loretto Chapel is one of the most visited attractions of the city, with many travelers making pilgrimage to Santa Fe just to set eyes upon the Miraculous Staircase. During the construction of the chapel the architect passed away. The resident Sisters prayed to Saint Joseph, the Patron Saint of Carpenters, to bring them a carpenter that could give them access to their choir loft. The carpenter who appeared built the staircase and left without notice, accepting no thanks or compensation. Furthering the mystery, the staircase is an architectural marvel, with all of the weight being held only by the bottom step. For five dollars, it’s worth seeing, and I was lucky enough to hear a string quartet rehearsing as I explored the nave. Close by is San Miguel Chapel. With construction having begun around 1610, this chapel claims to be the oldest church in the continental United States.

Cross of the Martyr

The best place to see a view of the city or a spectacular southwestern sunset is the Cross of the Martyr. This is more than just a pretty site, but a memorial to twenty-one Franciscan friars who lost their lives in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. As more voices are heard and horrors of colonialism are brought into light, the Historic Santa Fe Foundation continues to add informational signs that tell the various narratives of the conflict. Hike up from Paseo de Peralta or down from Prince Ave and read the plaques as you go. This hike is just over half of a mile and we found it to be an easy route.

ART

Meow Wolf: The House of Eternal Return

Via Meow Wolf
Via Meow Wolf

When researching our trip to Santa Fe, every blog recommended Meow Wolf, so let this be one more. While I can’t legally post any personal photos taken from inside, I can assure you that this wacky, whimsical, other-wordly immersive art installation is well-worth your time. Walk through a refrigerator, crawl through a fireplace, and slide down a washing machine as you attempt to solve The House of Eternal Return’s mystery. You are allowed to touch anything inside of the “home.” Clues scattered throughout will help you try to unravel the mystery of the family’s missing child. While my mother, sister and I weren’t able to crack the case, we do have our theories. Regardless of what answers you may or may not find, this labyrinth of rooms is entertaining to all ages. As it is extremely intricate, you’ll need almost two hours to feel like you have fully experienced every room. Buy your tickets online (starting at $35 for adults) for one of the first time slots of the day. Arriving early is the only way to ensure the rooms aren’t packed as you are walking through, because there is no time limit once inside and the activity is extremely popular. No outside food or drink is allowed, but there is a snack, coffee, and cocktail bar onsight.

Santa Fe Plaza and Canyon Road Art Galleries

Pottery in Santa Fe Plaza

Did you know that Santa Fe has a thriving art scene? This was news to me, but you will quickly come to appreciate the diversity of art this city has to offer. The pinnacle of this is Canyon Road. In only half of a mile, Canyon road squeezes in over one hundred galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. Unfortunately, we arrived after dark when most shops were closed but still enjoyed a bit of drive-by window shopping. It was blatantly obvious that nothing on the street would be within our price range regardless, but it was enjoyable to see why art collectors flock to this desert oasis. Santa Fe Plaza is the perfect place to visit local artisan shops that are more financially feasible. Make sure to grab souvenirs to remember the history of your own New Mexico adventures. The art for purchase ranges from sculpture art and paintings to textiles and jewelry. I bought a handmade headband for only $15 from a local vendor.

FLAVOR

Posa’s Restaurant

Posa's enchiladas
Posa's Restaurant

You’ll quickly learn that “red or green” is the number one asked question in Santa Fe. To clear things up for you, this question is asking whether you will be smothering your tamale, enchilada, burrito, etc. in green chile or red chile sauce (or “Christmas” style – red and green). By this point, you’ll have seen the chiles hanging all over the city, so even if you aren’t a spicy food eater, like myself, indulge in this local fare – just with a LOT of water on hand. Be sure to try their sopailpillas as a side! Posa’s Restaurant was our first stop in the city, and something we just happened upon in our delirious, post flight state of hunger. While other restaurants had been on our original list, Posa’s was fate. This family owned tamale restaurant and factory has been serving up large portions at cheap prices for over 60 years. Even my Latina mother approved. 

Dinner for Two Happy Hour

Per the recommendation of Newstate Nomads Youtube channel, we walked to the centrally located Dinner for Two to have, well, our dinner! Newstate Nomads claimed this to be the best happy hour in the city and they were right! From 4pm-6pm you can enjoy a variety of small plates and cocktails for under $9. We picked a bunch and shared them to make a personalized tasting menu. Every single plate was delicious, but our top recommendations have to be the truffle oyster mushroom soup, crispy pumpkin ravioli, and garlic truffle fries. For your beverages, get the Hello Kitty tiki drink for some added fun or the Love Bubble as it is featured on Santa Fe’s margarita trail. While the atmosphere was sophisticated, some patrons were dressed in jeans and cowboy hats and others in suit and tie, so don’t worry about feeling out of place.

Kakawa Chocolate House

While a relatively new addition to the Santa Fe community, founded only in 2007, Kakawa Chocolate House’s unique flavors have quickly made itself a staple. Even those who are not chocolate lovers have to appreciate the original Mesoamerican, European and Colonial chocolate recipes that these artisans combine with adventurous flavors such as goat cheese and sage, prickly pear, or cherry chile. While their flagship close to Canyon Road appears to be more aesthetically pleasing, we visited the location on Rufina Circle as it was right around the corner from Meow Wolf. The staff were knowledgeable and generous, giving us samples of the “elixirs” they are best known for. Due to the day’s heat, we opted for their milkshakes. Purchase a variety of truffles to-go to take the sweet taste of Santa Fe with you.